The Art of Making Shirts
The thought behind a fine shirt
Shirts are often neglected as an item of clothing that is not as important as a suit or a jacket, almost like the poor relation in one’s wardrobe. Nothing could be further from the truth. Other than an undershirt, a dress shirt or casual shirt is the first piece of clothing that is worn closest to the skin, and not only sets the tone for one’s ensemble but also defines its comfort and character. A well-tailored shirt made from the finest cotton cloth immediately conveys a sensation of distinction and comfort. Every element of a shirt’s construction, colour and detail expresses the personality of one’s entire outfit. As Mark Twain said, “clothes make the man”.
Our shirts are not “just shirts”, they are a product of meticulously detailed handwork by master craftsmen, and a precise cut to achieve the best possible fit, complement your wardrobe and establish your choice for the rest of your ensemble when you next get dressed.
Our Manufacturing and Tailoring Process
You will be measured by a master tailor. No online apps, no shortcuts and no mistakes. Measuring a client for a tailored shirt requires both an understanding of the male form and years of tailoring experience. Among proper posture and body type assessment, there are at least 15 other measurements that we take in order to create a properly fitted shirt. Otherwise, you won’t feel nor see any difference in the final product compared to an off-the-rack product.
Selection of Fabrics
We will draft a pattern specific to you and will store it in our archives should you ever require further adjustments or subsequent orders.
Designing and styling
The choice of collar style, cuffs, front, and stitch is a common process in shirt design. However, we go one step further. During the styling stage, we will allow you to choose how you would like your shirt to be made, which elements of hand or machine sewing should be applied, and where and how, depending on your individual comfort level and your desire to make your shirt to stand out. We will, of course, advise you during every step of this exciting process.
Every one of our patterns begins by drawing a simple vector corner. We do not use templates nor “cookie-cutter” solutions. Your paper pattern is drafted and stored in our archives should you ever require further adjustments or subsequent orders.
Once the paper pattern is made, we cut each shirt individually by hand. Details such as cuff and collars are also hand-cut as we do not use typical die-cut machines. The hand cutting process ensures that the most important focal points of a shirt are brought to life and allows us to fine-tune the collars and cuffs for specific neck and wrist curves.
Preparing for the first fitting (optional)
In some cases, we may prepare the shirt for a fitting session before completing it. During this stage, the shirt will be sewn together using temporary, and easily removable machine stitches. Some areas of the shirt, such as the sleeves and armholes, will be hemmed, allowing for fine adjustments and precise contour shaping. Once the fitting is completed, the shirt is returned to our shop where we make the necessary adjustments in preparation for finishing.
Our machines only use premium German-made Gutterman thread, recognized as the finest quality thread in the tailoring industry. Our machines are set to apply 22 stitches per inch (nine stitches per centimeter). Due to the dense quantity of stitches, machine operations are slow, leaving almost no room for error, and creating extremely smooth seams that will not pucker during the life of the shirt. Most areas of the manufacturing process of the shirt, from tacking the seams to the buttonholes, areas where comfort and functionality are essential, are done by hand. Once the shirt is finished, the buttons are sewn on the shank by hand and the shirt is hand pressed and folded.
We fit your new shirt one last time to ensure both pattern integrity and comfortable fit. Any small adjustments can be applied at this stage.
Garment is ready!
Your shirt is ready for collection. All initial measurements and subsequent modifications are recorded, applied to the pattern, and archived for future reference. You will also receive tips on how to wash and iron the shirt to ensure its durability.